St. John's wort Hypericum perforatum harvested by the Ralchevi family

St. John's wort: benefits for very dry and rough skin

St. John's wort Hypericum perforatum harvested by the Ralchevi family
A herb with a yellow flower that stains the fingers red and has one rule that is never broken. Here is what it is.
St. John's wort (Hypericum perforatum) carries hypericin, hyperforin and flavonoids. In skincare it is used for very dry, rough skin that flakes and feels tight. There is, however, one condition that always applies: St. John's wort is photosensitising and is not applied before exposure to strong sun. That is why its place is in evening care or as after-sun care.

How to recognise St. John's wort

St. John's wort Hypericum perforatum in bloom

St. John's wort is a perennial herbaceous plant, thirty to ninety centimetres tall, with two-edged stems and small opposite leaves. The flowers are bright yellow, with five petals and very long stamens that give them a tousled look.

There are two signs by which it is recognised with certainty. The first is hidden in the name: hold a leaf up to the light and you will see a multitude of tiny translucent dots, as if the leaf were perforated. They are not holes but glands with essential oil, and that is where the Latin perforatum comes from.

The second sign is even more striking. Rub a yellow flower between your fingers and they will turn dark red to violet. This juice gives the plant one of its folk names and is the reason the traditional St. John's wort oil infusion is deep red.

When we harvest St. John's wort and why around Midsummer

The Ralchevi family with freshly picked St. John's wort around Midsummer
The Ralchevi family with freshly picked St. John's wort: the harvest is around Midsummer Day, when the herb is in full bloom.

St. John's wort grows freely in dry meadows, along field margins and in sparse woods.

The time of harvest coincides with the most enduring Bulgarian tradition around this herb: around Midsummer Day, Enyovden, at the end of June, when the plant is in full bloom. The folk calendar and agronomy coincide here, because that is exactly when the active content of the flowers is highest.

Meadow with flowering St. John's wort Hypericum perforatum
When it is picked
In full bloom, around the end of June. That is when the glands in the flowers are most charged.
Which part
The flowering tops. The woody lower half of the stem stays in the field.
Wild-growing
From natural stands, selectively, so that the stand recovers by the following year.
Same day
The fresh mass goes into the still on the day of harvest, with no intermediate storage.

The actives in St. John's wort and what they do

St. John's wort leaf against the light with the translucent oil glands
Hold a leaf up to the light: the dots are not holes but glands. That is where perforatum comes from.

The two names that define the herb are hypericin and hyperforin. Hypericin is the red pigment that stains the fingers and is held in the dark dots along the edge of the petals. It is also the compound associated with photosensitivity.

Beside them stand flavonoids such as quercetin, rutin and hyperoside, as well as tannins. It is the flavonoid part that explains why St. John's wort is used in care for dry, reactive skin.

Hypericin
The red pigment in the dark dots on the petals. Associated with photosensitivity.
Hyperforin
The second characteristic compound of the species, unstable in light and heat.
Flavonoids
Quercetin, rutin and hyperoside. Studied as antioxidants.
Tannins
Give a slight toning sensation, similar to that of smoke tree.

The benefits of St. John's wort for very dry and rough skin

Smiling man with St. John's Wort Water HydrolinaSt. John's Wort Water Hydrolina held in the hands
The hydrolat and the soothing cream work together on very dry skin.

The benefits of St. John's wort for the skin are sought where an ordinary moisturiser does not reach: on very dry skin that flakes, feels tight and hardens on the elbows, knees and shins.

The hydrolat is applied neat with a cotton pad, and in a soothing cream St. John's wort works together with chamomile and propolis. The combination is no accident: chamomile soothes, propolis nourishes, and St. John's wort adds its flavonoid part.

The sun rule

This is the only serious warning in our whole herbal range and it deserves a section of its own.

St. John's wort is photosensitising. Do not apply it to skin that will be exposed to strong sun in the following hours. Its place is in evening care or as after-sun care, when the day outside is already over.

A simple rule that works: St. John's wort is an evening herb. If you need something for the morning before going out, choose chamomile, lemon balm or rose.

How we turn St. John's wort into a hydrolat

The column of the still, where the steam separates the essential oil

The steam passes through the flowering mass, carries off the volatile compounds and cools back into a liquid. The water fraction is the hydrolat, not an oil infusion and not a decoction.

1
Harvest. In full bloom, around the end of June, by hand.
2
Loading. The flowering tops go into the still the same day.
3
Steam distillation. The steam passes slowly through the plant layer.
4
Separation. The water fraction is collected separately from the traces of oil.
5
Bottling. The hydrolat goes into the bottle, without preservatives and without dilution.
1
ingredient: Hypericum Perforatum Flower Extract Water
0
preservatives, colourants and fragrances
90
days shelf life after opening

Note that the hydrolat is clear, not red. The red colour is characteristic of the oil infusion, where hypericin dissolves in fat. It hardly passes into the water fraction at all.

Our products with St. John's wort

Exemotosin cream with St. John's wort, chamomile and propolis in the family's hands

St. John's wort goes into two stand-alone products and one long-term routine for dry skin.

See the whole range

Over 60 products from 11 plants, grown and distilled by us. Creams, shampoos, soaps, salts, essential oils and hydrolats.

See all productsCreams

How to use St. John's wort in the evening

1
Evening. After cleansing, with a cotton pad on the dry areas. Do not rinse.
2
Before the cream. Let the hydrolat absorb and apply the soothing cream on top.
3
After sun. At the end of a summer day St. John's wort is suitable precisely because the sun is already behind you.
4
Never before going out. In the morning, before the sun, choose another herb.

Benefits and precautions: who should take care

With St. John's wort the benefits and precautions are no abstract topic. Here is what matters.

Photosensitivity
Not applied before exposure to strong sun. Only in the evening or as after-sun care.
Patch test
Apply a small amount to the forearm and wait 24 hours before the first use.
Cosmetics, not ingestion
This text refers to external use. Taking St. John's wort internally interacts with a number of medicines and is a matter for a doctor.
Shelf life after opening
No preservatives. Store in a cool, dark place and use within 90 days of opening.

Herbal cosmetics are care, not treatment. With psoriasis, eczema or another diagnosed skin condition they can run alongside what a dermatologist has prescribed, but they do not replace it.

Frequently asked questions

The family harvesting St. John's wort Hypericum perforatum
Harvesting St. John's wort is handwork. Ask us: we answer every question about the herbs we pick ourselves.
Why does a yellow flower stain the fingers red?
Because of hypericin, a dark red pigment held in the tiny black dots along the edge of the petals. When rubbed it is released and stains the skin. The same pigment makes the traditional St. John's wort oil infusion deep red.
Can I use St. John's wort in summer?
Yes, but only in the evening or as after-sun care. St. John's wort is photosensitising, so it is not applied to skin that is about to be exposed to strong sun. If you need morning care in summer, choose chamomile, lemon balm or peppermint.
Why isn't St. John's wort water red?
Hypericin dissolves well in fat but hardly passes into the water fraction during steam distillation. That is why the oil infusion is red and the hydrolat is clear. The absence of colour does not mean an absence of actives, but a different form of extraction.
Related articles
About the InaEssentials family
The Ralchevi family with Exemotosin cream and St. John's Wort Water Hydrolina in the meadow

InaEssentials is a Bulgarian family brand for natural and organic cosmetics. The family has over 25 years of experience in growing essential-oil crops on its own fields, and its products combine centuries-old tradition with the modern and the innovative. A closed production cycle is used - the family controls the whole process, from planting to production and bottling, to ensure the highest quality.

You can find more about the family's journey and the farm on the About us page.

Important information and sources
  • European Medicines Agency, Committee on Herbal Medicinal Products, monograph on Hypericum perforatum.
  • Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament on cosmetic products.
  • Regulation (EU) 2018/848 on organic production and labelling of organic products.
  • Ingredients and prices are as shown on the InaEssentials product pages as of September 2026.

This article was prepared with the help of artificial intelligence and reviewed by the InaEssentials team.

The information in this article is educational and does not constitute medical advice. InaEssentials products are cosmetics, not medicines, and are not intended to diagnose, treat or prevent any disease. The text refers to external cosmetic use. For a skin or any other health complaint, and when taking medication, consult a doctor. During pregnancy, breastfeeding and for children, consult a specialist before introducing a new cosmetic product.

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